Yes, just call us at 732-223-1231 —we’ll provide you with additional bags as needed.

Call Marstan Cleaners at 732-223-1231. Our team is available to take your call from 7:00am-5:59pm. After hours, you may leave a message with us, and we’ll contact you the following business morning.

Call Marstan’s main number 732-223-1231 between 7:00 a.m. and 5:59 p.m., Tuesday through Saturday, a representative will take down your name and address and inform you of the various payment plans. Also, you sign up online at www.marstancleaners.com.

You have several options. You can speak directly with your route salesman or you can call our customer service department to reschedule your pick-up/delivery while you are on vacation. Marstan Cleaner’s observes all national holiday and when the holiday falls on a weekday, Marstan Cleaner’s will pick-up/deliver the next day.

We’d love to hear from you! Feel free to talk directly with your route salesman in person or call Marstan Cleaner’s customer service department on 732-223-1231, between 7:00a.m. and 5:59p.m. And remember… Marstan’s 3rd generation family team members are here to answer any of your concerns or comments.

Purses are very difficult to clean and that is why so few dry cleaners are willing to process them. Garment manufacturers are required to label clothing with appropriate cleaning instructions. However, purse manufacturers are not required to address the issue of serviceability. As such, cleaning is never considered as they design their beautiful purses with combinations of fabric and leather, such as yours, making its cleaning even more of a challenge.

I would NOT recommend that you attempt to clean that coffee stain off your purse yourself, especially since it is a relatively new couture item. It would be a shame to accidentally ruin it. Bring it in to have Dan analyze and give his expert opinion on whether it is salvageable.

Here at Marstan Cleaner’s we can fix the problem with a wax stick to lubricate the zipper. Otherwise, we could also replace it with a higher-quality zipper.

With that type of garment, it’s easy to “see” your dilemma. The fabric is probably too sheer to do an iron-on, stitching will show, a dart may look out of place, and if it’s not close enough to a seam to taper, that just about takes care of all the “simple” options.

We suggest to adding a design or accent to the area or duplicating the same design or emblem across from it or in the general area to make it look like it belongs.

Our seamstress can do wonders, so think about consulting with Barbara.

This is an age old problem with Velvet, with darker colors presenting the most challenge. You probably have sewing holes and matted velvet, where pressure flattened the fabric. Velvet is a pile fabric, so the nap is easily crushed — not just by old sewing machine holes and stitching, but also by alcohol and liquid spills, as well as perspiration. It is very hard to “lift” the nap of Velvet. We can open the seams, steam and brush the velvet, and remove many of the marks.

Most “better” fabrics should be dry cleaned. Designers are readily using 4-ply polyester, organza, chiffon, taffeta, acetate, linen and linen blends and, of course, silk and satin. All of these fabrics require professional care.

Dry cleaning removes body and food oils, wax, and most things that contain oil. Water-based stains such as soda, coffee, alcohol and perspiration require extra spotting prior to dry cleaning. Marstan Cleaner’s specializes in designer & couture clothing, so we know how to best remove water-based stains. Stains such as paint, ink, curry and superglue, as well as stains that have aged may not be completely removed.

The second part of the “process” is the finishing. Here at Marstan Cleaner’s we can give a quality “finish” a garment without incurring shine, fabric and button impressions, crooked pleats and such.

If so, can this be fixed? Poor dry cleaning can. If a dry cleaner does not maintain his solvent in good condition by filtration and distilling, the solvent will accumulate impurities. These impurities will then be re-deposited back onto other items being cleaned causing the effect you have noticed, dulling the brightness or yellowing. It is sometimes possible to restore to the original condition, depending on the makeup of the affected item.

Washing can help if the item is washable, re-cleaning in clean solvent sometimes results in an improvement and it may be necessary to use dye strippers as a last resort. Not all garments can be washed nor can dye strippers be used in every case.

Marstan Cleaners is very careful when cleaning something that has loose dye. We don’t clean it along with anything else until we are confident the dye has been set or the excess removed.

To set the dye you can use a vinegar for acid dyes but it doesn’t work well with cotton fabric. A product called “Retayne”, sold by local quilter’s supply shops or goto www.dharmatrading.com. It can be used to set the dye in cotton fabric.

Often you can clean the item a few times to remove the excess dye. If it is multi-colored, be sure to not let the item set damp or soak in water as the dye may bleed and discolor the garment.

If your clothes are returned to you from the dry cleaner and smell of solvent, bring it back because it can be fix at no cost to you. This smell is a sign of impure solvent and bacteria growth in the system, and is not caused by too strong a solution as commonly thought. This bacteria holds on to the garments and the solvent molecules and slowly releases the solvent, thus the smell.

It is often thought that the cleaners start with new solvent on a particular day of the week. Only a small amount of solvent is received and added to replace that lost to evaporation. Distilled solvent is used on every load to properly care for your clothes. A properly maintained dry cleaning system should produce odor free clothes with every cleaning.

Ink on a suede garment is a difficult stain to remove, even for experienced suede cleaner. Dyes on suede and leather garments are not as color fast as one would desire. Often it is necessary to remove some dye along with the ink then replace the dye. This is a difficult process depending on the color of the suede. Ask Dan at Marstan Cleaners, your leather cleaner about the process used with ink stains.

The white spots you are experiencing is mold. Wiping the white spots only removes the fungus from the surface. Spores will remain in the fibers and the fungus will quickly return. Do not leave your clothes in the plastic garment bags for extended periods. You will need to address the humidity condition that most likely exists in your closet.

Considering that all the other clothing was white and washable, you have a pretty good chance of restoring them. Provided that you didn’t dry them yet in the dryer, bring them into Dan at Marstan Cleaners and he will strip the dye from the pieces.

It is “curing” during the manufacturing process that causes that problem. It is something you need to be aware of when you begin to shop. A fact about Silk Knits: If the fabric and mixture is not processed properly—not boiled properly—then the fabric holds sericin (from the silk cocoon, sericulture), and this is what causes the bad odors. Neither dry cleaning nor washing will remove the odor. Apparently only boiling will help, but the garment would be ruined. The best thing to do is to return the garment to the retailer. They need to know about the problem so they can send them back.

A “spot clean only” label means that you can only clean this item by hand. It is important when wearing that you are particularly careful not to get the dress heavily soiled or spotted.

Spot cleaning (what we refer to as hand cleaning) involves removing each spot or stain one at a time with the proper cleaning agents to assure that no damage is caused to the beaded finish. Then the underarms and lining is wiped down. Finally, the dress is hand pressed.

At Marstan Cleaners we handle high end garments and have no problem servicing this garment for you. Be sure to point out the label when dropping it off. We are confident in our ability to clean the dress for you if you wish, and would be happy to do it, especially if it is a particularly high end piece or one of your favorites!

The fact that the dresses are washable and polyester helps a lot. The main problem with deodorants and the stains are the white rings that form from powder and some roll-on’s. On some poly and acetate fabrics, the deodorant gets ground into the fabric from friction and the stubble under the arm that acts like sand paper. Make sure that you are freshly shaven, before wearing dresses and blouses of this type, and make sure that your deodorant is perfectly dry.

As for the best type of deodorant, it’s a very personal choice. Most deodorants don’t actually stop you from sweating. Antiperspirants usually do. But you may want to try some sprays or aerosols, as they leave fewer residues than some roll-on’s and powders.

How can a consumer get around this (yet still provide dry cleaner with care instructions)?

Most clothing can be cleaned by a professional without the use of care labels. However, with all the new fabrics and constantly-changing care instructions, it always helps when the dry cleaner can double check the care label.

If the label “irritates” the skin or shows through the garment, it can be removed or relocated to a less noticeable place. If there is no other choice but removal, then I suggest that the label instructions be copied into a notebook and either submitted or verbally conveyed when the garment is dropped off for cleaning.

Worn clothing may contain collar & cuff soil, food and drink stains, perspiration, cologne and perfume…any of which can discolor fabrics and cause holes and yellow or brown stains. Yes, stains are considerably more difficult to remove if they sit in the fabric for more than 48 hours. Insects love soiled fabrics and are attracted to all of the stains listed above.

What are some items that should be dry cleaned “regularly” (even if they seem to be “clean”)?

Clothing should be cleaned, without exception, before storing for the season, even if they appear clean and were only worn for 5 minutes. This applies to all fabrics, but especially to wool clothing and sweaters.

When labels like this surface, there are usually ways to get around them. In most cases, Marstan Cleaner’s has the skill, experience and ingenuity to properly assess the fabric, construction, embellishments and dyes to find a safe way to clean the garment. Sometimes the garment can be “spot cleaned” in the troubled areas, hence complying with the unrealistic and problematic care label.

Care labels can be limiting or misleading but, in most cases, when a label says dry clean only it means it. However, many fabrics that bear a dry clean only label such as linen, cotton, and some rayon, micro fiber and silk are wet cleaned or hand washed successfully. Keep in mind that lighter colors respond best (limiting dye bleed and fading), and most require expert pressing and finishing to maintain the proper body and drape.

Club soda, considered for so many years to be a “cure all” for practically every mishap, usually just spreads out the stain and can make removal of oily stains like butter and gravy almost impossible. Club soda is NOT recommended!

If you rub a stain with a napkin dipped in water or club soda, it breaks the fibers and causes color loss (crocking). It appears to be helping, when in fact the majority of the time a very expensive piece of your clothing investment is being ruined.

It is best to blot the stain with a clean dry napkin or towel then STOP! Be very careful with a damp or wet cloth as color loss or a water ring may be the result.

We are trained stain experts and at work we have all the right tools, and agents, but at home or in a restaurant/bar we are as powerless as you. We have preached to our customers not to attempt daring feats of stain removal because it simply ruins clothes. Our customers now announce proudly, “I left the stain alone as you taught me”, and their expensive garments will live to be worn again.

The following is a partial list of factors that determine the stability of a garment to different types of care:

• Was the material pre shrunk? Dry cleaning generally induces less shrinkage than machine washing.
• Dye stability: some dyes are stable in one, either, or neither water or dry cleaning solvent.
• Finishes: optical brighteners, sizing, shrinkage control, and other finishes can react differently depending on the cleaning method.
• Embellishments: many beads, sequins, leather trim, and other embellishments can severely limit the serviceability and care of garments.

As you can see, one cannot select the care method based on the material alone and must rely heavily on the care label and past experiences.

First, have that beaded chiffon and satin dress cleaned, even if you don’t see any stains. Marstan Cleaners pre-treats the underarms. Before taking it to the cleaner, try to separate the chiffon from the satin, if you can, so you can see through the chiffon. Hold it up to light and check for stains. Most stains are absorbed into the chiffon layer and are not always visible on the satin beneath it.

After cleaning, you have several choices:

• It’s common for people to redesign a special event dress so it can be used for a regular night out. We have an excellent seamstress who can do that type of alteration for you.
• You could also have it “heir loomed” and stored in an archival-quality acid free box.

That glitter shell requires special care. You can tumble the pieces in the dryer (preferably in a mesh net), but be careful–if you have dangling metal clasps or fragile buttons they may need to be removed. This will shake loose some of the extra glitter. You could also use a blow dryer. When it’s time to have the garment cleaned at Marstan Cleaners, who uses Hydrocarbon cleaning for garments, it will minimize permanent loss of glitter from the dress. Falling glitter is a long term problem that will improve with each cleaning or tumbling, but will rarely disappear completely. Marstan Cleaners uses Hydrocarbon to dry clean customers’ garments.

Yes, definitely consider installing a cedar closet if you have the space to dedicate to off season garment storage. Cedar has long been considered an ideal storage environment in the fight to stave off insect damage. While there are no guarantees, a well sealed and periodically renewed cedar closet is a wonderful asset when it comes to home storage.

Avoid attics, basements and garages as a general rule! While there may be exceptions, in most instances these areas do not have the same level of temperature and humidity control as the main living areas of a home.

The short answer is “only if you will be wearing them this season.” those plastic bags are not advised for storing the garments for more than a season. The bags you receive your clothes in from the dry cleaners are meant for short term protection only.

By not allowing the fabric to breathe, these bags can trap heat and humidity and contribute to the oxidization of stains and general discoloration of fabrics. To protect garments from having dust settle on them, simply throw a cotton sheet or large towel over the top of the rack. This still allows the fabrics to breath.

We recommend storing garments at our climate controlled storage facility provides protection to insect and moth damage.

It’s important to make the right choice between hanging and folding for storage. It’s generally very simple to make that determination. Sturdy tight weaves do just fine on a hanger, and require very little maintenance when it is time to reactivate them. Most knits, especially the looser and thinner ones, should be folded ( using acid free tissue to soften the folds ) to prevent distortion of the shape. A beautiful knit can become horribly distorted if stored carelessly.

An appropriate area to store clothes should be:

• Well ventilated
• Free of excessive moisture or humidity
• Free of large temperature fluctuations
• Free from direct sunlight or artificial light
• Free from dust

The single most important precaution is to clean all your clothes before you put them away for the season, even if they don’t appear to need it. Some people think cleaning is “bad” for clothes. However, if you talk to anyone in the fashion world, the universally accepted notion is that cleaning is good for clothes…and only “bad” cleaning is bad for clothes.

My recommendation is to not box your gown unless it meets the carry-on requirements or you check with the airlines to assure that they will put it in baggage at the gate. Checking your gown like luggage is too risky.

A convenient method I have employed is to utilize suit hanger or wide drapery hanger and a 60″ garment bag. I recommend you carry your dress on the plane. Be the last to put something into the overhead and the first to take it down.

If you wish to stretch your sweater back to shape, it may be possible, but it’s a little tricky. Washing the sweater, even by hand, tightened all the yarns. In a worst-case scenario, it may have “felted,” which is very hard to restore. (But this usually results from tumble-drying.)

You can try this procedure at home or have your dry cleaner do it. Re-wet the sweater in a sink with a little detergent and a little dissolved hair conditioner. This should loosen and relax the yarns. Rinse gently, squeeze out the excess water, and lay it flat on a white terry towel. Once on the towel, you can try to re-block it to the desired larger measurement, with special attention to the areas you felt shrunk or after drying bring it in to Marstan Cleaners to resize it. The more you pull, the thinner or narrower it gets. Continue blocking it until it’s dry, or it may continue to shrink.

Answer provided by Chanel:

“Haute Couture” clothing is made to measure for a woman when she orders from a sample of a specific style shown in Paris at the “haute couture” collection.

Ready-to-wear (Prêt-à-Porter), as opposed to “haute couture”, is just that: ready to wear. These fashions may need alteration, but are immediately available to any customer who wishes to buy them. Only certain fashion houses are allowed by law to use the term “haute couture.” Twice a year they must present to the press in Paris, a collection of a minimum of 50 pieces, for day and evening. The collection must be made in their own workrooms with 20 or more workers, and they must show the collection in-house, in dedicated salons.

CHANEL Boutiques and various department and specialty stores carry ready-to-wear fashions. “Haute Couture” clothing is produced in the workrooms of CHANEL in Paris, and the samples travel to the U.S. twice per year: usually to New York.

We have had excellent success restoring lace that has yellowed with age. Posted on our website is a photo of a vintage dress that we restored half and sewed it back together. The lace had severely yellowed on this gown. The photo is in our Preservation and Restoration page. This should give you an idea of what is possible. This all assumes the lace has not become overly brittle and can withstand the processing necessary.

Store your boxed gown in a cabinet or closet in the main section of the house, preferably in a place where it will be left relatively undisturbed. A guest bedroom or spare room closet is ideal. Don’t store your gown in the attic, basement, on a cement slab, or in a closet that contains an outside wall. Extreme fluctuations in temperature and humidity can result in damage to the gown. If at all possible, it is best to store the box flat to prevent shifting of the gown during storage. If it is necessary to store the box on end there is adequate tissue provided to support the gown and keep it from bunching up at the box bottom.

You can definitely still preserve your gown, even after two years or more. If the sugar stains have begun to caramelize and turn brown than we may have to perform a restoration procedure prior to the preservation.

Restoration is a specialty of ours. Restoration will take gowns that have begun to yellow or have caramelized sugar stains and restore them to an original or improved condition. The restoration procedure is more aggressive than a standard preservation procedure and each gown needs to be evaluated before performing a restoration. If yellowing or caramelization has NOT begun in the garment, then restoration should not be necessary. Bring your gown into our location or send it by mail for a free evaluation.

Is your gown silk or poly? If it is silk don’t touch it. There is very little you can do. Stains that won’t typically be entirely removed include black heel marks and the ground in dirt at the very edge of the hem.

If the gown is poly you can try a mild detergent and water mix in a discrete location and check how it dries. Make sure that no ring is left and look at the gown from all angles to be sure.

We would much prefer that you permit us to take care of removing the stains. Even if you DO work on removing the stains, we will still have to clean the gown as a part of the preservation service.